The wine quality laws of Austria are the strictest in content, the most rigorously applied and most assiduously followed in Europe. Though still something of an unknown quantity in the UK, you can have absolute confidence in Austria's pool of considerable winemaking talent. Our only difficulty has not been in tracing an adequate selection; in the face of consistently delicious samples and obstinately modest sales, it has been in narrowing down numbers to a manageable level. Gruner Veltliner is Austria's 'own' white grape and can make wine of extraordinary quality and concentration. Sepp Moser's Gebling achieves weight with elegance and considerable complexity. His red is the perfect answer to all who are disenchanted with New World sledgehammers - vivid, fresh, oak-free and lively.