A country forever trembling on the verge of commercial vinous success. Like Italy, Portugal has a bewildering range of unknown but worthy grape varieties. The red wines frequently show a wild edge which is terrific if managed; modern ideas and investment are bringing gentler techniques to wineries where it once seemed that penitential tannin was the goal to strive for. All these reflect that up-to-date chapter of production by maintaining unique, local flavours but expressing a fresher fruit character. These are cracking, modern wines of originality and finesse and we salute dynamic winemakers like Nuno Cancela of Boas Quintas and the frighteningly talented Rui Madeira. Rui makes an astounding red from Quinta do Coa which is certified organic. Quinta do Correio is a fresh, fruity starting point. Pinga do Torto, made by Paul and Raymond Reynolds in their Macedos estate in the Douro (but actually on the banks of the Torto) is the star of the show and worth every penny. If ever there was a wine made for roast beef this is it!