The instransigence and, yes, arrogance of many top names encourage us to have a ferret about among the byways and less fashionable quarters of Bordeaux. Given the capital it is actually quite easy (not to mention unimaginative) to fill a list with glowing icons of the region; the fun - and the skill - of it is to find much less well known properties that shine nonetheless, yet remain mystifyingly under appreciated. Obvious perhaps, but still worth repeating, is that it is also where the best value is to be found. "Good value" and "Bordeaux" have not sat comfortably in the same sentence for many years, but there is a sort of grass roots transformation at the artisan grower level where passionate winemakers strive to make better wine rather than just arbitrarily jack up the price from time to time. Our modest selections - red and white - represent the fruits of genuine hard work by cheerily determined growers miles away from the silly end of the market and without so much as a whiff of the decaying laurels upon which too many estates have rested for far too long. Half a dozen new faces here prove that point again; even the dearest of them is stonking value by Bordeaux standards.