 Not many years ago the demand for Australian wines was heavy and, in some quarters, none too choosy. Today, while independent Australian winemakers have learnt variation, embraced different grape varieties and now reflect the nature of their region in the character of their products, the solid, one dimensional variety of big brand at the commercial end of the market now bores the more interested drinker. Anything that turns people away from the price cons and ordinariness of such lines is to be welcomed, but the danger is that, as with Liebfraumilch in Germany, they may put some consumers off all Aussie wine which would be a big mistake. Get away from that uninspired level and you enter a different world where you rediscover the passion and graft that differentiates the lacklustre from the delicious and original. We are pleased to represent smaller, independent growers like Rolf Binder who thoroughly deserve a listing and provide a rich celebration of regional styles and individual excellence. If you haven't had a chance to discover what Australia can offer from this hidden pool of winemaking prowess, treat yourself to John Duval's sumptuous Plexus - a Rhone blend of great complexity and length - or Coriole's world class Mary Kathleen Cabernet/Merlot. Simply stunning.
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